Chigonas, Crime in Paris, Paris in Complete Safety, Pickpockets, Ring Scheme, Tourists in Paris, Travel, Travel tips for Paris, Wisdom

Traveler Beware: Three Common Tourist Schemes in Paris


Luxembourg Gardens-alvaradofrazier.com

Paris is not only elegant architecture, museums, handsome men and cafe crèmes. There are also the realistic problems that occur in most large cities.

I debated about posting on the subject of crime, because I don’t want to deter anyone from visiting this wonderful city.

But the wise maxim,“forearmed is forewarned,” is important to remember.


France is a relatively safe country. Most crimes are non-violent. Three different forces maintain public safety and security:  municipal police, national police, and the military gendarmerie. After three weeks in Paris, we have seen three of the most common crimes encountered by tourists and one response to a demonstration.
Paris Police-alvaradofrazier.com
We are staying in an apartment three blocks from the Mosque. Police were on alert in Paris after protests planned by some Muslim groups were banned.This photo is of an officer in SWAT type gear heading to a demonstration held against the publishing of a distasteful cartoon of the prophet Muhammad. We wished him safety and non-violence. Thankfully it was a peaceful protest.  

The majority of crimes directed against foreign visitors involve pick pocketing, bicycle theft, and other forms of theft with minimal violence. Violent crime is relatively uncommon in the city center.

Being the chingonas that we are we also believe in using wisdom. So in that vein, I’m passing on these tips to you.

On day two, we observed the ring scheme. While we crossed the Pont Neuf we observed a young woman pick up a ring from the ground and present it to a passing couple. The ruse is to ask if you dropped it, “… is it yours? It’s so beautiful, must be expensive, I have no need for this, but maybe you’d like it, I’ll give it to you for ten euro…” 


When my friend pointed out the scene to us, the young woman’s friend (a much older man selling iced bottles of water a few feet away) glared at my friend so intently I immediately thought of the words, ‘if looks could kill.’

A young man tried the ring scheme on us a week later as we crossed the Jardin de Tulieres enroute to Musée D’Orsay. We kept walking and waved him away. “It’s a nice ring, baby,” he said, to which we had to laugh. I haven’t been called ‘baby,’ for years.

Another ploy involves several young women asking you to sign a petition or take a survey while waving a clipboard and pen in your face. This occurred in Montmartre and at Metro exits near the Opera. Keep your purse close and keep walking.

Pickpockets are by far the most significant problem. We heard about pickpockets on crowded Metros and took precautions: zip the purse, keep it in front of you with the strap across your chest.While in the Musee D’ Orsay a pickpocket warning was broadcast over the PA system in four languages.


Yesterday we returned from Bon Marché department store (with  our raincoats, umbrellas, and purses) and just made it into the last metro car before the doors shut. Three young girls somehow jumped on after us, bumping into my friend, who entered the door after me. It was so crowded we all stood, along with four other people in the small space. It was a prime environment for the ‘sandwich’ technique: the thief bumps into you, lifts your wallet or other valuable item, and masks the physical contact with expected benign body contact (like in a crowded area). 

Within a few seconds, a tall handsome man standing next to my friend (the guy looked like Daniel Craig) yelled at the girls, they yelled back. I heard the word ‘pickpocket,’ and then an argument ensued. The smallest girl, maybe 15 and about 4’10 85 lbs, turned into a fighting Chihuahua, snarling at the man and puffing out her chest like she was a Golden Gloves flyweight. One of the taller, slightly older girl followed suit.

A few people backed away into the aisles of the car, including this chingona (I know when to back away even if I did grow up in the barrio). My poor friend was stuck on the other side of the arguing group. The man stepped forward, I heard the words ‘pickpocket’ again, and he gestured at my friend, more yelling and wild gesturing from the girls. The metro car jerked to a stop, the man reached over the girls and hit the green button. The doors slid open and he yelled at them to get out, they refused and he pushed all of them out the door.

All three of them gave him the finger, cursed him and continued screaming as the metro car pulled away. One jumped at the window. Mr. Daniel Craig calmly took out his Blackberry and continued reading.

When we departed, at the next stop, we talked about what had just happened and remembered that there was no one behind us when we entered the car. We hadn’t heard footsteps behind us. The girls must have been waiting in the small alcove. But thanks to Mr. Daniel Craig and the precautions we took with our purses, we were not victims.

Stay vigilant in the Metro and commuter trains, especially at night, and do not display any electronic devices or wallets. Carry only essential items. Avoid carrying high-value jewelry and large amounts of cash. Valuables should be kept out of sight and in places difficult for thieves to reach, such as internal coat pockets or in pouches hung around the neck or inside clothes. Shoulder bags and wallets in hip pockets are an invitation to a thief. In addition to purses and wallets, smart phones and cameras are particular targets. Keep backpacks in front of your chest.

Crowded elevators and escalators at tourist sites and crowded metro cars should raise awareness levels. When possible, take a seat or stand against a wall to deter pickpockets and try to maintain a 360-degree awareness of the surrounding area.

While on foot, remain aware of your surroundings at all times and keep bags slung across the body, with the bag hanging away from the street. Many tourists have had purses or bags stolen from the back of a chair or from under the table while in restaurants and nightclubs/bars.

Keep photocopies of travel documents and credit cards separate from the originals, along with key telephone numbers to contact banks for credit card replacement.

The Paris Police Prefecture publishes a pamphlet entitled “Paris in Complete Safety” that provides practical advice and useful telephone numbers for visitors. It can be downloaded here.

Please don’t get the wrong impression, we are having a fantastic time here in Paris and have met many, many more pleasant, helpful, and courteous French people than not. Like in most cities in the USA, you have to practice safety and be alert. Remember these few tips and enjoy any trip abroad. Au Revoir.


Authors, Books, Chateau Vincennes, Festival America, First Peoples, Hector Tobar, Louise Erdrich, Paris, Toni Morrison, Travel, Writers

Toni Morrison and Louise Erdrich in Chateau Vincennes

festivalamerica-alvaradofrazier


Amada and I, the two Latinas in Paris,  just returned from Chateau Vincennes where we spent the day attending the huge “Festival America: Literature and Cultures of the Americas,” that took place throughout this past weekend.

A couple of weeks ago we saw a poster in the metro of a big old truck with Festival America-looked interesting, to writers such as we are, so we got on the internet and found their website.

We shrieked when we read that this years guest of honor was Toni Morrison, Pulitzer Prize recipient for her novel “Beloved.” She also has a Nobel Prize in Literature. Louise Erdrich, author of 14 novels, including “The Plague of Doves,” was also going to be there as well as Hector Tobar, another Pulitzer Prize winner and Los Angeles Times Journalist. He is the author of “The Barbarian Nurseries.” 

First we had to find out how to get to the Chateau-pretty easy with the Paris Metro website and iPhone app. It’s about 30 minutes away. We made our way there on Friday afternoon and visited the Chateau itself, royal home of Charles V, and famous for housing the Marquis de Sade in one of its prison cells. (PS- This place has one of the best audio guides I’ve ever rented-very detailed). 

by Edward S. Curtis-1903 
The festival took place in the center of town, in front of the Hotel Del Ville (City Hall) among white tents with a yellow tee pee. Now the tee pee is there as part of the First Peoples exhibition. 

The festival commemorated  the 520th anniversary of the discovery of the American continent by devoting a series of discussions, screenings, and 8 photography exhibits with the theme of the First Peoples, Inuits, and Indians North and South.

Now back to Toni Morrison. When she entered the stage, via wheelchair, she received a standing ovation. It was a very crowded auditorium with people standing alongside the walls and aisles.( I don’t think they have fire codes like the USA). 
Toni Morrison 2012-alvaradofrazier.com
Everything was conducted in French, with interpreters by the English speaking authors, so I had to wait until the applause died down to understand what was said.  It was noted that she is 81 years old and has been writing for decades. Ms. Morrison has a soft high pitched voice, very pleasant and resonant.  Her gentle lovely response:

 “My mind is alive, I am alive, and I can make other people alive too, through writing…”

 She credited Carlos Fuentes, Marquez, and James Baldwin as some of her influences. 


Louise Erdrich was also on stage with her interpreter.

She commented that she attended a presentation by Toni Morrison decades ago. “…I remember the first time I heard you…at Dartmouth…you read a piece of Beloved. I experienced this surge…this power of writing, so visceral…you gave me the grace and freedom to write.” 


To which Ms. Morrison commented, “…reading Louise’s first book was love at first sight…the purity of her words…” caught her attention. 

Unfortunately, we could not find the panel where Hector Tobar spoke, but I’m sure I can see him back in Southern California. (Did I mention that the programs were all in French too?)
There was more to the discussion on Ms. Morrison’s writing, but frankly it was hard to follow since the discussion was in 3/4 french (with the questions asked in French with no English translation) and 1/4 English. 
After the presentation we looked for Ms. Morrison, among the throng of people, so we could get our book signed. Alas, she was gone. Louise Erdrich though did stay,we had our books signed and had a chance to tell her how much we love her work. 

I’m glad Amada and I took a chance and attended the festival. What I came away with was that contemporary writers are influenced by other great writers, it is important to read great literature, and you have to remain faithful to your voice and write because you are driven to write, not for prizes or accolades, but to get the story inside of you out there in the best possible way. Now I know I didn’t have to go to France to hear that, but it sure made for a cool adventure.